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| Bats are common in the caves of the Turks and Caicos |
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East
Caicos
Caves
The caves on East Caicos
are a lot more remote and difficult to reach than those on Middle Caicos.
Similarly mined for guano in the 19th century, it is the infrastructure set-up
by the miners that made it possible to find the caves at all. A
donkey powered
railway was established to transport the valuable guano to
the coast and it this trail that one must follow inland to reach the caves.
There are four caves spaced out along the 3 mile track. It is overgrow with
countless trees, shrubs, and cacti, and progress can be fairly slow.
The first two caves are located about 20 minutes down the track and are both
labyrinths of tunnels and rooms that interconnect in very confusing ways. The
passages range in height from 20 feet to just 2 feet high and there are a
number of secrets entrances and obvious skylights. The descending roots of the
strangler fig are a common site and old bird and rodent bones litter these
entrances, remnants of past meals by the resident owl. The history books tell
us that these caves were used by the Taino Indians hundreds of years ago for
shelter and as a place of worship. A number of artifacts and skeletons were
discovered by the miners and ancient petroglyphs can still be seen on the walls
of the caves today.
The other caves along the trail are quite a bit further along and require
crossing an old causeway over a shallow creek. Rising up onto the hillside the
old railway continues onto some ruined buildings, past a large sinkhole (with
submerged side tunnels leading off it), and onto the mouth of a vast cavern.
Filled with water there is evidence that great pumps were used to drain out the
caves, presumably to access the further reaches of the cave and the remove
valuable guano within. The water is cold but welcoming after the hot and sweaty
walk to get there. The ceiling is high and the floor extremely muddy. The cave
is still home to a healthy population of bats and the water is full of shrimp
living off their refuse. There is good reason to bring your mask, snorkel, and
a waterproof camera; the long passage turns to reveal a rocky outcrop lit by a
shaft of light from a skylight high above. It's an impressive and beautiful
sight.
From this rather remote but awe inspiring location it's always tough to pull
yourself away and begin the long walk back down the donkey trail to the waiting
boats. A back-pack, sturdy shoes, long pants, and a long sleeve shirt are
highly recommended. Flashlights and knee pads are provided by Amphibious
Adventures.
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